Two people can lose a car key on the same day and pay very different amounts. The difference is almost never the locksmith; it is the car and the situation. These are the factors that set the price.
1. The type of key
- Plain metal key: older cars. Cut only, no programming.
- Transponder key: a chip in the head that the car must recognize. Cut and programmed.
- Remote head or flip key: a chipped key with lock and unlock buttons built in.
- Smart key: a fob for push-button start. The most expensive part to supply.
2. Whether any key still works
Adding a spare to a car that has a working key is the simple case. When every key is lost, the cut has to be worked out and the car taught from nothing, which takes more time and equipment.
3. The make and year
Most American and Asian makes are routine. Several European makes tie the key to a module inside the car and take longer. A few recent models can only be supplied by a dealer.
4. Time and place
Late nights, holidays and long drives cost more than a weekday afternoon in town.
5. Extra work
A broken key to extract, an ignition that also needs repair, or a car that has to be opened first all add to the job.
6. The part itself
Original fobs cost more than aftermarket ones. Ask which you are getting.
Questions to ask on the phone
- What is the total, including the trip, cutting and programming?
- What could make it higher once you see the car?
- Is the key original or aftermarket?
- Will I get an invoice?
Related: car key replacement, spare car keys, key fob replacement.
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